Abisko National Park
After getting lost in the fog and dark the night before Jun and I decided that between us we’d use the daylight to find the lake. I made that my first mission before heading off into the park to explore the Kungsleden trail.
Turns out that lake Torneträsk was indeed the advertised 300m from the guesthouse – we’d just missed the road in the dark. I followed it straight down to the water and the boatclub.
I loved this lake – it was perfectly still and devoid of people.
On my way towards the park I passed Jun who was returning and said it was very beautiful. I was pausing every few meters to take a photo of something or other when I discovered, to my delight, a whole lot of wild blueberries (well, bilberries technically I think?) growing everywhere.
It was getting late but I wanted to see the Sami camp so headed along a very quiet and narrow path behind the train station. There was no-one anywhere around, it was amazing.
I couldn’t get over how big they were. The closest animal in size I’d seen before then was perhaps a camel…the mother crossed the path a way in front of me and headed into the camp. I waited for the calves to follow her before I did so too.
They started literally eating the huts, it was amazing! The whole encounter was so special, and lasted nearly half an hour. Totally majestic animals, and completely silent.
Abisko supposedly has a population of around 85. Most of the people there, therefore are tourists. While I was there virtually everyone I saw was a tourist, apart from one old guy down near the lake, a jogger in the morning and a dog-walker in the evening. I’m not sure if it’s the old stoic Swedish stereotype or an Abisko-specific thing but none of these people were particularly friendly…the old man ignored my attempts at a greeting, the jogger positively glared at me and the dog-walker radiated an almost aggressive indifference. I thought maybe they’re sick of tourists, but who knows…
I enjoyed the Abisko guesthouse, for what it was. It was expensive but accommodation options are limited out there, and overall I’d probably return. The kitchen was great, the dining area was also nice. My (triple, it was the cheapest…) room was dark and a bit cramped and the place itself looked a bit like a maze inside…but again, overall it was pleasant enough and the location (close to the lake and station and next to the shop…even though said shop was closed indefinitely) was great.