August
2017
Lampaul-Plourazel to Morlaix via Roscoff and Saint-Pol-de-Léon
Our last day in Finistère took us along Brittany’s north coast through charming Roscoff and Saint-Pol-de-Leon and ended in the shadow of the epic viaduct in Morlaix.
Waking up in the yurt was fun. We enjoyed our quirky accommodation even though we never met our host and we had to ‘play the game’ as per his written instructions and clean up and remake the beds for the next guests…
The cloudy weather persisted but happily it didn’t rain again and there was no wind, which made exploring more pleasant than the day before. Roscoff was lovely, a very charming port town. With a direct ferry route to the UK though it definitely had more Brits than we’d encountered anywhere else and catered for them more obviously too – most restaurant signs etc were in French and English, not something we commonly noticed elsewhere.
It was roughly around lunchtime when we left and had become pretty sunny. We didn’t explore too much in Saint-Pol-de-Leon apart from the church. It was huge and featured a lovely rose window. I tagged along with an elderly couple on a free tour from a volunteer but understood under 1% of it so excused myself swiftly. The one detail I remember though was that there was some festival or commemoration or something for the fool or the madman, and there was a statue of one such gurning fool in the church (which I think I inadvertently photographed).
Hunger eventually drove us from the church to our favourite store: Super U. This branch had really cool shopping bags with the Gwenn ha du on them which we didn’t find anywhere else, much as we looked.
On the way out of town we passed a pretty graveyard and stopped for a short exploratory walk.
Entering Morlaix was confusing as the main road splits over opposite sides of the river. We overshot our guesthouse and had to turn around at the marina but found it the second time around. Petit Bijou was great and I’d highly recommend it. Our British hosts, Rachel in particular, were lovely and super helpful.
In the evening we took advantage of the town centre’s free parking after 6pm and found a space in front of the impressive viaduct. I cannot overstate the size of the thing in person. It was staggering and awe-inspiring, I can only imagine how it looks when adorned by a train. We’d hoped to go up but after starting up the stairs were told by a man coming down not to bother, as it wasn’t open.
We settled for a short exploratory walk around the cobbled old town instead. Morlaix that evening was of the quietest towns both in terms of people on the streets and volume – it was so calm and still.
By some fluke we were standing right beneath the monumental structure when the lights went on – it was like magic!
– – –
BZH 2017: Intro | Pt 1 | Pt 2 | Pt 3 | Pt 4 | Paimpol 2017 – Festival du Chant de Marin
Pt 5 | Pt 6 | Pt 7 | Pt 8 | Pt 9 | Pt 10 | Pt 11 | Pt 12 | Saint-Malo: La Route du Rock Festival
Pt 13 | Pt 14 | Pt 15 | pt 16 | Pt 17 | Pt 18
If you travel and you don’t use Booking.com you really should it’s the best! I’m not 100% sure how the referral codes work but try mine if you haven’t used one before for a discount after your first trip: https://www.booking.com/s/35_6/rattsi32